This five-kilometer-long, reeling sand-bottomed right was recently surfed all alone by Mick Fanning. Where is it? Mick is remaining tight lipped (as he should!), but he did describe to us his first impressions of “The Snake”:
“The first couple of waves, I was thinking, ‘This is way too fast.’ And then I finally got one, and it was like, ‘Alright, here we go. Get the groove going.’ It was crazy. I wanted to catch every single wave, but I didn’t want to miss the biggest ones. It was hard paddling over these perfect, chest-high runners. On any other day, you would go on that wave, but because there’s no one around, you have to make sure you wait for the bombs. You don’t want to be running up the beach and see the wave of the day just go through…Surfing by yourself, you can’t sit where the line’s going to be or where it’s going to come in. ‘Do I paddle in? Do I paddle that way?’ I missed a couple of waves because of that; I was too far out. I was shooting down the line when I should’ve been shooting in…It’s just speed management, man, that’s all it is. I feel like an F1 driver. The waves that I’ve seen here? I’m coming back, for sure. I just got an appetizer. We’ll be back.”
Still curious? Read our exclusive feature with Mick and his secret wave in Issue 10 of Belly Magazine, out soon.